Where Cider Flows at Arm's Length - Asturias

I woke up on top of the mountain, in a tiny albergue where I had just arrived yesterday and watched the sunset across the monumental Asturian peaks. After being solo again, I was excited to explore another part of Green Spain. I spent a night in the village of Colombres, right on the border with Cantabria. I had my first taste of the famed cider, poured by a bartender at arm's length. I had been hearing about this the entire time on the Camino and was really excited to give it a try. Watching the bartender pour me a glass at 1 PM, being his first customer of the day, I immediately opted for a whole bottle before even taking a sip. As it touched my lips, I realized what a mistake that was.

I grew up in a beer country, so developing a taste for cider (cidra) is a challenge of its own. The first night on Asturian soil provided me with some of my favourite albergue spots on the Camino. Being at a higher altitude and staring into the mountains was a welcome change after a week on the coast. I have long debated whether the ocean or mountains provide a better environment for relaxation—I've now concluded that the ocean is #1 for that, but mountains are close behind.

After weeks on the coast, Asturias presented a beautiful change. To be quite frank, it might have been my favourite part of the entire Camino. On the right side, you still have the endless Atlantic Ocean, and on your left, you have the dramatic peaks of Asturias, continuing with the Camino Primitivo—the original pilgrimage.

Asturias - Wild Spain

Asturias has a rich Celtic heritage, evident in its music, festivals, and traditions. This Celtic influence is less pronounced in Cantabria and the Basque Country, giving Asturias a unique cultural identity. The sound of bagpipes, known as "gaitas," is common in Asturian music, and the region’s festivals often feature traditional Celtic dances and costumes, similar to those in the westernmost northern region—Galicia.

Asturias is particularly famous for its cider, or "sidra." This cider is unlike any other—it’s traditionally poured from a height to aerate the drink, enhancing its flavour. This unique pouring technique, known as "escanciar," is an art form in itself, and cider houses (sidrerías) are a key part of the social fabric in Asturias.

Two industries that have historically blossomed in this region are steel production and mining. However, like many industrial regions in Europe, Asturias has had to adapt to the changing global economy. Asturias has put a lot of effort into tourism and is known for its proactive stance on sustainability.

The region's main airport, Asturias Airport (OVD), is strategically located on the coast north of Oviedo. It connects Asturias with major Spanish cities like Madrid and Barcelona, as well as several international destinations.

Naturally, the region's outdoors is its biggest attraction. From hiking and mountain biking to surfing and kayaking, anyone who loves the outdoors will always find a playground in northern Spain, no matter which region they are in. During my Camino, I also passed through cities like Gijón and Llanes. While I believe every city has something to offer, none of them particularly moved me, especially compared to Bilbao or San Sebastián a few weeks before. However, the villages were adorable. I stayed in Villaviciosa during the pueblo's annual celebration, and it was bliss, with plenty of sidra.

The Camino’s Influence on Asturian Tourism

The Camino del Norte plays a significant role in bringing visitors to Asturias. As mentioned in previous letters, the Norte attracts those looking for a more authentic and challenging pilgrimage experience.

Tourism driven by the Camino has had a notable impact on the local economy. Many small towns and villages along the route, which might otherwise see little outside traffic, have become vibrant hubs during the pilgrimage season. Albergues, cafés, and small businesses cater to the needs of pilgrims, and the influx of visitors helps sustain these communities. This has been the biggest eye-opener for me while on the Camino. It was the first time I travelled for weeks solely on foot. Rather than visiting places known to every soul on this planet—like Barcelona or Madrid—I found myself passing through villages I had no idea existed.

Once, while sitting on a rock on a trail near a village, a Spanish abuela stopped, and we started chatting. She was shocked that someone from Slovakia would come to do the Camino, let alone that I would speak any Spanish. She boosted my ego enormously by saying, "Mi castellano es muy lineal"—something I bear proudly to this day.

Encounters of this kind were eye-opening for me. We often travel chasing "the most beautiful places" or those that are unique and special. Yet authenticity is what always brings us the most satisfaction. Travel means being curious, satisfying the thirst for knowledge, challenging opinions you've heard all your life from the media and other people, daring, and learning from your own mistakes. Nothing does this better than going out of the spotlight, to places not so widely known, and spending time with locals.

The Camino Primitivo: The Original Way

Asturias was a very unique part of Camino. Every time I think back to it my memories are vivid. I established a routine. Every morning I would wake up at 6 and start hiking with my head torch. After getting 15-20km done in silence - I would chat to first pilgrim that crossed my path. This way - I started chatting with Peter, dutch chap, and Sarah, a girl from Germany. In the week through asturias we have formed a formidable triangle. Spending some days in the same albergue, some separate - but always finding each other on a trail. We had many beers/tinto de veranos and menus del dia. Formed a little of a trail fam dare I say? Them, and also other people often mentioned Camino primitivo. Some pilgrims would actually start Norte as a warm up route to the Primitivo.

Known as the "Original Way," the Camino Primitivo is the oldest of all the Camino de Santiago routes, dating back to the 9th century when King Alfonso II of Asturias first made the pilgrimage from Oviedo to Santiago de Compostela. This route crosses the rugged landscapes of Asturias. All the folks talk about its difficulty. Most of the pilgrims that were headed this route were returners, seeking more authentic and challenging experiences.

The Camino Primitivo starts in Oviedo, the capital of Asturias, and winds its way through the region. Keeping this one on the list for now.

Sarah, Peter, Lauren, Laurie, and other friends I made on this trip—I never really stayed in touch with them. We never exchanged social media; we were all just present. Every day, we knew we would run into each other, and we could either walk together, share a laugh, or talk one another through our deepest fears and insecurities. There's something so charming about chatting with a stranger—the feeling of liberation. Every piece of advice you'll ever get is subjective, but getting advice from someone who doesn't know anything about you, just your determination to walk this trekking day in and day out can open your mind to many new horizons.

One day, when I was hiking in the rain, fighting with myself and feeling rubbish about everything, I met this girl. She was on the Camino with her 1-year-old son. I immediately stopped complaining about anything. Complaining is one of the worst traits humans are given. Things happen—good and bad, challenging and less so. It's about finding your way through and dealing with setbacks. No one will ever bear responsibility for the direction of your life but you. Seeing Lena with her child on that rainy day, pushing the stroller up a steep hill, truly reminded me that every mountain is there to be climbed...

Remote Work

Of all the northern regions, Asturias might be in the hardest position when it comes to attracting digital nomads. This is not only because it may not be as well-known but also due to its connectivity. The region's airport is not well-connected with international flights. The cities are smaller, and not as bustling, artsy, or lively as those in other northern autonomous communities. Despite this, plenty of travelers on the north coast are mobile, using vans as a way of transport while chasing the swell and weather. There are coworking spaces, especially in cities like Oviedo, Gijón, or Llanes. Similar to Cantabria, in 2024, I believe the best value one can get when nomading in Asturias is through vanlife.